Thursday, March 20, 2008

Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?

http://lee.org/blog/2005/08/10/motorized-bicycle/

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=105381


http://www.cyclingforums.com/archive/index.php/t-337698.html

1 comment:

Nam Vu said...

Motorized Bicycle
August 10th, 2005 8:46pm. General
I had been doing some research on getting a motorized bike and the Golden Eagle Bike Engines motorized bicycles, running EHO25 25cc Robin/Subaru Mini 4 engines get about 225 miles per gallon. The similar EHO35 35cc Robin/Subaru Mini-4 gets about 200 MPG. I’ve seem this claim verified in a few places.
These are 1.1 and 1.6 horsepower 4 cycle engines made by Robin Subaru that weigh under 8 lbs… under 13 with mounting hardware. So that’s a 200 lb rider, 25 lb bike, 15 lb engine…
I’m thinking of getting a motorized bicycle because:
- You need a lot of motorcycle to go over the Bay Bridge comfortably…. 250CC, $3-5k used. A motorized bike costs $200 for the bike + $550 for the engine, new. I just saw a used bike and engine on Craigslist for $325.
- You need a lot of nerve to take a motorcycle over the Bay Bridge. Lane splitting is nerve wracking and dangerous. In the 1 month I’ve been here, I saw one bike almost get bowled over by a car that didn’t see the bike and moved into his lane (or he was being a super-duper asshole). And pretty much every lane splitting motorcycle I saw was inches away from disaster.
- I mostly want the motor so I can keep up with slow urban traffic… SF traffic peaks at about 35 mph
- It would be peachy keen if I could easily put a motorized bike on a bike rack hanging off the back of my car.
- It is convenient to combine a bike (that can be run under human power) with a vehicle with more range and speed. Electric bike batteries are too heavy and underpowered.
- A motorized bike compares favorably to a 150CC scooter:
· top speed: 30mph vs 50mph
· highway capable: no vs not really
· weight: 40lbs (can be carried up stairs) vs 200lbs
· mileage: 200mpg vs 65mpg
· safety factor in an accident: similar
· cost (new): $800 vs $2,500
· towability: bike rack vs trailer
· can be pedaled effectively: yes vs no
· passenger capacity: no vs yes
· hauling capacity: backpack & 1 panier vs backpack & 1-2 cubic foot storage space
· noise: similar volume (some scooters are very quiet, most scooters make a less annoying noise than a motorized bike)
· cool factor: novelty vs sleek
· insurance: free vs $400/year (approx)
A motorized bike wins in most of these categories. So why don’t I see more of them on the street??? Am I missing something?
Beuller? Beuller?
Potential negatives….
· When riding in traffic lanes, especially at night, cars behind me might not see my (minimal compared to scooter) lights
· Cars won’t believe a bike can keep up so they’ll want to pass me, regardless of my speed
· … ?
- possibly related posts-Motorized Bicycle - Part 2-Bike buying stupidity-Coral is riding in the AIDS LifeCycle
93 Responses to “Motorized Bicycle”
1. Luis Says:
April 26th, 2006 at 5:34 pm
Did you ever get the motorized bike? I just bought the kit today and wanted to know how it handeled in S.F. I live in eastbay



2. Lee Says:
April 27th, 2006 at 9:02 am
No, I haven’t. It’s a couple little reasons… I worry that car drivers will freak out when they see what looks like a bicycle from behind keeping pace with them down the street and they’ll do stupid things. I kind of ran out of energy for projects. I haven’t found I need a mid-range vehicle as much as I thought; driving & parking in SF isn’t as bad as people let on.
That’s not to say a motorized bike wouldn’t be totally sweet. It would be good for the world if you blogged your bike building and using process! Tell me how it goes.
3. james Says:
May 28th, 2006 at 11:33 pm
first off sorry about my spelling. anyways i live in a small city in ontario canada (only about 34000 people live here) and i own a homemade bicycle/moped which took me about 10 hrs to build, and i love it. i drive my motorized bicycle to work everyday. the reason i have one is
A.im only 23 and a male so insurance is ridicous ($200 a month no accidents or tickets).
B.i live in the 3rd floor of my building and didnt want to carry a 80lb moped upstairs everyday (i dont leave it downstairs because things get stolen fast around here
C.gas prices are ridicously high and getting higher
D.it is just a blast to ride. a bike with a engine gets alot of attention because of the fact that they are soo rare
4. blues39 Says:
June 5th, 2006 at 10:01 am
I purchased the 40cc Tanaka Engine form Golden Eagle Bike Engines.
I put it on a Giant mountain bike. I have commuted to work four times on it and love it. My commute is 40 miles round trip.
My average speed has been 21 mph with top speeds of 30 plus. It runs best at about 26 MPH. I would recommend Golden Eagle Bike Engines to anyone who wants a motorized bike. FUN FUN FUN
5. luis Says:
June 8th, 2006 at 10:50 pm
I bought the 35cc robin/suburu and I love it. My commute is 12 miles round trip with an average speed of 28 mph. After riding it for a few weeks I average 20 miles per tank and will probably get 130 mpg but I haven’t finished the first gallon yet. I may purchase the trail gear because I have a long incline going home and usually pedal a bit to keep up the speed ( I’m Lazy ). How’s the 40 cc tanaka I really considered purchasing it because the power but didn’t want to mix fuel on a 2 stroke.
How long does it take you to ride one way? To drive the 6 miles for me it takes 12 min. because of speed limit and stop lights but on the bike it takes me 20. Not to bad.
6. james Says:
June 8th, 2006 at 11:44 pm
i am consitering buying a golden eagle. ive herd good things about them and wouldent mind paying that extra cash for a good quality engine kit. but to whoever isnt lazy and dosent mind pedaling a bit check out this https://www.revopower.com/ i was blown away when i saw this new kit. they are around $400 and take 15 min to install. i woulent buy one because it is only 1hp but wow what a cool kit.
7. Lee Says:
June 9th, 2006 at 10:51 am
The Revopower won’t be out for a year but it looks pretty cool. I worry about breaking it when hitting bumps but then it might be just fine…
I’m reconsidering getting a motorized bike. My 90 mile/day commute continues to get more expensive; my carpool buddy Linden moved a few miles further away from me :-( . It’s possible to bike to the train and then ride 5 miles in a flat area to work.
I’ll look into it this weekend (along with a million other things I’ve got to “look into”). Not enough time in a day I tell you.
8. blues39 Says:
June 9th, 2006 at 11:14 am
I have the 40 cc Tanaka engine, which is the 2 cycle. I bought a 2 gallon gas can which i fill up and put in 2 bottles of the 2.6 oz of 2 cycle oil. Its not really a hassle at all. I also have a MSR full bottle that holds 30 oz. of my mixed gas, which i attach to a water bottle holder on my bike for the 20 mile commmute back home. My one way commute takes anywhere from 50 minutes to 60 depending on traffic and lights. My average speed is about 22 mph with lights and traffic. I have a high of 34 mph, but the engine really runs best at about 27-28 mph. The engine has a 33 oz tank which i fill to 30 oz. My gas milage is approx. 26 miles per tank. I think that will give me about 112 miles per gallon. I have about 260 miles on the engine right know, so I think milege might improve. Still very happy with the GEBE product.
9. james Says:
June 9th, 2006 at 12:39 pm
what gear do u have on the tanaka 40cc? i herd those kits ars very powerfull and can do well over 30 mph with the standard gear, i was just wondering if u have the highway gear.
10. blues39 Says:
June 9th, 2006 at 1:23 pm
I have just the standard gear #13. I quess i need to check out the Hwy gear. It could be scarey going faster than i am. I’m not sure if i want to go any faster.
11. blues39 Says:
June 9th, 2006 at 1:28 pm
My bike with engine weighs around 40 lbs plus I weigh 230 lbs. With a lighter rider i’m sure it goes much fater than my top speed of 34 with the standard gear. But again 30 + mph on a bike is really fast.
12. zach Says:
June 10th, 2006 at 2:11 pm
Why dont you just make one. I made one in about 2 hours, and im only 14. the only thing is that the cops are not so fond of my bike as i am.
13. Lee Says:
June 10th, 2006 at 4:46 pm
Zach, I need pictures!!
14. james Says:
June 10th, 2006 at 8:10 pm
making one would be nice but getting the proper ratio on a gear or belt drive is difficult and a roller drive kills your wheels. i do give u grats on making your oun, that is not always a easy task. but yes i would like to see a pic of it as well. i am looking to make one for a friend of mine and need a simple but effective way to do so. im in the process at the moment of looking for a small engine at garage sales, hopefully with a clutch so if anyone has any recomendations of a type of engine (such as one from a weed wacker or something simmiler) it would be appreciated.
15. jimbo Says:
June 17th, 2006 at 7:38 am
will someone share their plans and step by step instructions to help me build my own motorbike. how about with a weedeater engine? i’m now in a rural area and i need (and always wanted) a motorbike. any help is deeply appreciated. thank you. jim abcjimk@bigriver.net
16. zach Says:
June 17th, 2006 at 8:43 am
as much as i would like to post plans, i will coose not to. this is because every engine is a little different. i will offer advice though. if you are a beginner i would go with friction drive because it is far more simple compared to belt drive and chain drive. friction drive is only practical if you live somewhere that is very dry because even the slightest amount of moisture will cause the spindle to slip against the tire causing severe tire wear and a great loss of speed/power. if you have a larger engine i would say go with chain drive. by larger engine i mean anything greater than 2 horse power. chain drive is best because you can drive it in all conditions, and your tire wont wear down nearly as fast. you can also have a centrifugal clutch with a larger engine. for more information i strongly reccommend the following website.
http://www.scooters.tziworld.com
17. Lee Says:
June 19th, 2006 at 12:58 am
Some links for Motorized bike enthusiasts:
http://www.bikeengines.com/index.htm
a Popular Mechanics article
http://www.bicycle-power.com/
http://www.altabicycles.com/bicycleengine/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/power-assist/
http://www.staton-inc.com/default.asp
Small Engine Warehouse
http://cyclehappy.com/
18. zach Says:
June 19th, 2006 at 5:31 am
that stuff is realy expensive and you would have a better time making one yourself.
19. jimbo Says:
June 19th, 2006 at 7:18 am
does anyone have a used bike engine and install accessories they will sell me at an affordable price. maybe you upgraded. maybe you just have an extra one you’re not gonna use. whichever, i need a good deal. thanks. jim
20. james Says:
June 20th, 2006 at 9:52 am
i think most people have to remember that cheaper isnt a good thing. ive seen alot of reveiws and have came to the conclusion that most people who get cheap engine kits install them, enjoy riding around on them, but waste their money on them because they wind up spending their money on a nice one from golden eagle or station inc in the end. my advice is if you really want a motorized bike for summer transportation to work or whatever then pay the extra money and get the quality kit. if u just want to dink around on it or just like building cool crap out of stuff you can buy at a garage sale and turn it into a motorized bike then go ahead. As for me i enjoy and do both and so i bought a golden eagle kit(suposed to be shipped to me soon) which i will use to go back and forth to work, and im trying to build one for dirt cheap out of stuff i can find at garage sales.
21. Craig Foster Says:
June 24th, 2006 at 5:48 pm
A few comments: If the purpose of the bike is for dependable serious use as well as fun, my experience is the cheaper motor units while educational from a tinkering perspective are not worth utilizing long term. I live in Dunsmuir, (a small town 6 miles south of Mt. Shasta) and ride regularly down the Klammath River on camping trips and take my bikes up to the top of Everett Memorial Highway, a 4,000 foot vertical climb to the end of the road on Mt. Shasta. My particular favorite is a combination of a recumbent trike with a Honda 50 cc 4 stroke with a Staton gear box/chain drive. California law requires manual propulsion and a combustion engine of 2 brakre horse power or under to be exempeted form the DMV registration requirements Veh. Code 406. I have build motorized tandems both Quadrabent style and traditional, recumbent trikes with solid rear axle as well as split axle with cambered wheels, 2 wheel tandems and a four person bike with twin Hondas for propulsion in addition to people power. I have used the Robin 4 cycle engines (1.6 hp), the Tanaka R series 2 cycle (2.8 hp), Hondas (33) and (50)-4 cycle, and most recently a 2 cycle Mitusubishi. I have also motorized a pedicab with a Honda 50. If I were pressed for one best solution for the serious rider, commuter, camper afficionado or sport enthusiast my ALL AROUND FIRST CHOICE FOR A UTILITY VEHICLE WOULD BE A THREE WHEEL RECUMBENT WITH PANNIERS, AND A BACK PACK WITH A HONDA 50 CC AND CHAIN DRIVE. I have had marvelous results with Staton’s drives. These engines are pricy running approximately $650 for the engine and drive. My oldest Honda has 6,000 miles of very hard mountainous riding carrying 400 lbs and more on three day treks. Unfortunately I account for about 275 of those lbs. The Tanaka 47R is rather loud although there are muffler systems made for them after market, however on a frame like the Giant Stiletto it easily reaches 50-55 mph and has great low end torque. The Subaru 1.6 compares well to the Honda 2 horse if you are a lighter driver. Where the Honda will go up a grade in my area at 22 mph the Subaru travels under identical conditions at 17 mph. The Honda with a sixteen gear sprocket does 34 mph , the Subaru 22-24. mph. The Mitusubishi is a 2 cycle engine with 22.6 cc of displacement. On a recumbent trike with a load of 280 pounds it will go up my test hill at 14-16 mph with peddling assist by the cyclist. It will propel the trike at 18-22 mph on the flat and is a very light weight economical unit. I would recommend this engine for lighter riders and I have not yet road tested it for sustained trips carrying typical loads.
Side by side tandems with engines are great however, due to the necessity of putting a gear on the rear axle and upgrading the rim and axle components, there is one major drawback-a flat requires disassembly of the Quadrabent kit and about two hours on the road side if you know what you are doing.
Friction Drives. My experience with friction drives is limited to SUN Bikes USX bike which is a recumbent trike with understeering (no handlebars in front) The handle bars are under the driver’s seat and contain the gear shifts brakes and throttle. The friction drive is the easiest installation. The caveats for friction kits are as follows: The intent is to assist the bicyclist. It will take pressure off your legs going up inclines, it will maintain your speed on the flat. It will not act like a motorcycle wherein you hit the gas and start with positive drive and take off. Problems: It wears the hell out of standard tires which affects the drive friction. It is worthless in wet weather even with the stone wheels. If you have a split rear axle bike you will enjoy a chain drive much more if you are an average enthusiast. You will have to weld your own mounting bracket to accommodate the split rear axle which is offset (about 7 degrees of camber -the chain needs to hit your gear without a twist, thus the motor is mounted with a slight bias).
Drive gears and number of teeth: There are two parts to this equation: the number of teeth on the gear mounted on the motor and the number of teeth on the drive freewheel. The factors vary as follows: The engine/gear kit combination and reduction through the gear box, the size of the rim and the general terrain. A Staton gear box with a 50 cc engine will typically come with a 16 tooth gear as the drive gear on the engine side. This is true of all the bikes I build. For steeper terrain dropping down to a 15 tooth gear makes a significant difference in the ability for the bikes to be able to handle the hills. The more the discrepancy from the engine gear tooth number to the drive slip gear the greater the low end torque which of course costs you higher end speed. As an example, I have a 4 passenger bike with twin Hondas for drive. The bike weighs approximately 300 pounds. To negotiate the hills I had to gear one Honda with a 13 tooth gear and the other with a 26 tooth gear. The 13 tooth gear drives the bike at 10 miles per hour in solo mode. The 26 tooth gear will not drive the bike at all, however, win they are twined there is a synergistic effect and the governors make up for any cross over power imbalances in conjunction with the slip gears. As geared the bike does 27 mph on the flat, but it requires both engines working together to keep the revs up.
I hope this information answers some of the more arcane and onscure aspects of your projects.
Good Luck
Craig- The Third Wheel Bike Shop
22. blues39 Says:
June 26th, 2006 at 10:08 am
If commuting is what you want to do buy Golden Eagle. I have the 40cc Tanaka set up and it runs great. Why tinker with anything else. Buy the kit , install in 30 to 60 minutes and go. I Commute to work 40 miles a day round trip. Top speed in the 30’s. I average 24-25 mph with traffic and stoplights. Why bother with tooth gears!!!!!!!!
23. zach Says:
June 26th, 2006 at 5:26 pm
STOP BUYING KITS!!!! Use your brains and have fun figuring out how to take common, everyday items and make them into someting you can enjoi. Dont be overwhelmed in thinking that making a motorized bicycle is difficult. It is surprisingly simple. I make a friction drive moped using an old girls bike (that i spraypainted so i wouldnt look like an idiot), a Homelite weedwacker engine, a cheap BMX peg, a door hinge, and assorted bolts and nuts. It is not difficult. you can do it yourself. The best part is….. its cheap!
24. blues39 Says:
June 26th, 2006 at 6:39 pm
Zach that might work for you but i want realiable trasportation and not look like a hillbilly riding a girls bike.
25. james Says:
June 27th, 2006 at 12:23 am
it is like i said before, if u want a dependable ride (which i do) get a kit(and ya i own a golden eagle kit and use it everyday to go to work) And if u want to tinker around and take pride in acomplishing your own goals by building something fun (which i do aswell) make a kit at home. they both have their pros and cons such as, kits cost too much, and, homebuilts are not dependable, but it is all in what you want.
oh and i was wondering if anyone knows a good place to get engines from. and dose anyone know if any kinds of weed wackers have ceintrificul clutches or can be eaisly fitted with one.
26. jimbo Says:
June 27th, 2006 at 6:55 am
i have a LAWNBOY 31CC weedeater that has a centrifugal clutch. it was made that way.
27. Lee Says:
July 3rd, 2006 at 3:34 pm
2 pix of what Zach did:





28. james Says:
July 4th, 2006 at 10:14 am
interesting but couldent u have used a larger tire with a to scale larger drive roller?
29. zach Says:
July 8th, 2006 at 3:29 pm
yea, but i thought this looked cooler.
30. james Says:
July 8th, 2006 at 10:26 pm
what kind of top speed can you get out of that thing?
31. zach Says:
July 9th, 2006 at 12:33 pm
aprox 25 mph with a 140 pound person riding it.
32. blues39 Says:
July 9th, 2006 at 9:41 pm
GIVE ME A BREAK. NO WAY THAT GOES 25 MPH. AND WHERE DO U PUT YOUR FEET. lOOKS LIKE A DEATHTRAP.
33. jimbo Says:
July 10th, 2006 at 6:32 am
how is the foot peg attached to the motor shaft?
34. Lee Says:
July 10th, 2006 at 12:49 pm
I think Zach’s bike is the coolest deathtrap I’ve seen in a while ;-)
I can imagine it’s fast with the gearing it has!
I’d tinker and build something like that right now but I’m working on something right now. :-)
But I -will- need a bike soon.
35. zach Says:
July 10th, 2006 at 2:53 pm
i put my feed between the chain stays of the frame. i attached the footpeg to the motor shaft by slipping the peg over the threaded shaft and tightening down a nut that works with the threading. I will worn you, that if you ride a bike like this in an area with many police, you may get yelled at or punished.
36. Lee Says:
July 10th, 2006 at 5:52 pm
…get yelled at…
r0×0r!
You never know for sure if something is cool until people tell you shouldn’t be doing it.
37. scott Says:
July 15th, 2006 at 7:10 pm
zack dose it run all the time or do have something to take the roller of the weel how did u bolt the peg to the shaftmy email if ford88stang@hotmail.com
38. Coltin Says:
July 16th, 2006 at 7:21 pm
Well I built a motorized bike alot cheaper than any1 on here i bet. I bought the bike for 35 dollars, the 5 Hp Briggs and stratton motor for 20. I Made the Mount for about 50 dollars, and bought the clutch and pullies and sprocket, belt and chain for about 80. And Itll do 45 MPH. Its A great workin bike. I Am currently getting ready to make one with a 10 hp. Well anyway bye
39. jimbo Says:
July 17th, 2006 at 8:05 am
any of you guys familiar with a ‘Power Products’ vertical shaft gas engine(unknown cc)made by ‘Phelon’. it’s an oldie ,but,a goodie.
40. zach Says:
July 17th, 2006 at 11:45 am
i built a motorized bike for 8 dollars. I win.
41. james Says:
July 23rd, 2006 at 4:53 pm
ok i just got my EHO35 robin golden eagle bike kit and WOW. not as much power as ones me and friends of mine have made in the past but i am just loving this engine. it took about 60 min for me and a friend to install, it is surprisingly light, and it takes normal unleaded gas. i filled it up (with a tank that small it was a little dificult, i spilt about 10% of the gas i pumped) i gave the primer a couple of pumps, pulled the cord ONCE and it started right up. all of my old ones took 10 min to start. i got going on it and at full speed i coulent even notice a hint of vibration and it ran soo quiet. i drove right by a cop and pretended to pedal and he didnt look twice at me (it isnt registered yet so im just trying to keep a low profile untill it is). to anyone who wants a bike engine that they want to drive legaly on the roads i recomment this one.
42. frank Says:
July 24th, 2006 at 5:55 pm
hi, im interested in knowing how the tanaka 40cc does on hills. i live in vermont and have the 35cc and it struggles on some of the steeper dirt roads. ive used the trail gear too.any suggestions on engines with alot of torque or systems that do.i like the golden eagel system and want to stay with that.
43. blues39 Says:
July 24th, 2006 at 10:02 pm
I have the 40 cc tanaka engine. I commute to work three days a week.
I have 3 or 4 very steep hills i climb. If i pedal up the hill I can keep a steady speed of 26-28 mph. Not peddaling it it still will go 22-24 mph.
44. james Says:
July 24th, 2006 at 10:06 pm
if you want a rediclus amount of power i would recomend the 47cc tanaka from station inc. other than that ive heard good things about the golden eagle 40cc. also if you already have a golden eagle kit with a 78mm clutch you could easly attach any other engine with that clutch size on to toe existing golden eagle clutch. that might save you some money and give you a better variety of engines which you could use.
45. brandon Says:
July 27th, 2006 at 11:58 pm
ok im not even goin to pretend to know alot about this or anything but the umm shaft that comes out the engine how do you thread it to put the bike peg on there
46. zach Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 7:04 am
it is already threaded. go to a hardware store with the engine and find the propor bolt.
47. shovel Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 5:02 pm
just so anyone, everyone, and their mom knows: it does not matter what size wheel you use with friction drive. the bicycle wheel is not a factor in gear ratio. the speed across the ground will be identical to the speed of contact with the drive roller. Effectively your simplified gear ratio is the engine roller vs. the planet earth.
also, Zach’s death trap may nor may not be functional and cheap, but it’s a POS death trap anyway and i doubt anyone with the sense to have survived past 18 years old would ride it, much less commute 20+ miles per day as many people are suggesting.
48. Lee Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 6:12 pm
Shovel,
Sorry, my mom doesn’t read my blog. But I asked her and yeah, you’re right. I just wasn’t thinking.
Zach’s POS death trap motorized bike runs circles around mine, which only exists in my tiny little head. So I’m not going to criticize it.
Yours must be frickin awesome. Tell me about it!
49. shovel Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 6:17 pm
heh, i don’t know about frickin awesome… i gulped hard, ponied up the cash to buy a “golden eagle” and mounted it to a reasonably decent $180 department store mountain bike I already had… and only have to ride it to work about 3 more weeks for it to have completely paid for itself in fuel savings. No broken spokes, no broken belts, no close calls or scary stops, absolutely no problems on a 50 mile daily urban commute (25mi/dir)
and a LOT less wear on my car, too :)
50. shovel Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 6:19 pm
oh, and i got the subaru 25cc 4 cycle motor if that matters.
51. zach Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 7:02 pm
hey shovel, you can suck my dick cuz you pussied out and PAID LOTS OF MONEY for something i can build (POS death trap, my sack).
52. Lee Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 7:13 pm
Play nice.
53. shovel Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 7:45 pm
*sigh*
I’m a prototype and display engineer for a global electronics company by trade. This includes fabricating things slightly more complex than a peg on a motor on a bike. This is not a matter of “can”.
Because I get paid to do what I do best, I also pay other people to do what they do best. This is why any of us have anything, if you’ve ever taken an economics class.
What I paid for wasn’t a questionable motor that was lying around, loosely bolted with prayer and bubble gum onto a thrift store bike with no brakes … what I paid “lots of money” for was an already engineered, complete solution that is reliable and safe. And summarily better than Zach’s death trap, period.
Rent on my house costs more than twice what this whole set-up cost, and I have nothing of material value after I pay rent.
So mr. Zach-the-confrontational, prove to me that you’ve commuted 250 miles per week on the device depicted above for over a month and I may just give you the dick sucking you requested. I’ll be holding my breath.
54. Lee Says:
July 28th, 2006 at 7:49 pm
Shovel, you were doing really well until the dick sucking part. I’ve disabled comments to allow all parties to cool off.
55. Lee Says:
June 11th, 2007 at 5:28 pm
Sorry, I forgot about this topic for a while. I’ve re-enabled comments.
56. Erwin de Leon Says:
June 13th, 2007 at 3:11 pm
So, my question is drivetrain. Which is most reliable, Stanton’s chain drive, or GEBE’s belt/wheel/spoke unit?
57. Timcycle Says:
June 18th, 2007 at 6:24 am
OK. Golden Eagle Bike Engines. EH035 Subaru Robin engine. This has been recommended to me. Has anyone used it and what type of pro/cons can you share. I’ll be installing this on a TREK 850.
58. Eyrcs Says:
June 18th, 2007 at 3:19 pm
I’ve been interested on putting a tanka kit on my bike. I have to ride a bike cause i have no license for awhile. The big question i’ve been trying to find is, can i ride a motorized bike without a license in michigan?… I’ve heard “as long as its under 50cc” , “As long as it has peddals” , “aslong as it doesn’t go any faster than 30mph”… course i’ve heard people just say “no”. Anyone know a site where i can find out or someone on here from MI? I’m pretty athletic and pedal around 18-20mph with no help. I just think it’d be sweet to be able to go that fast when i dont feel like pedaling or even go more than 30 when i do.
Thanks for any help
59. Eyrcs Says:
June 18th, 2007 at 3:28 pm
Sorry for spelling.. heh… also wanted to know if anyone has tried the Mitsubishi Rear Mount 43 cc 2.2 hp friction drive kit. Says its very quiet. I seen it from Edgesports.net
Thanks again
60. Timcycle Says:
June 18th, 2007 at 3:56 pm
Friction drives work good in dry weather. Two cons: They wear down tires and 2. they slip when wet. Don’t know about Michigan. The folks at Golden Eagle Bike Engines are based in Michigan. You might give them a call. http://bikeengines.com
61. Timcycle Says:
June 21st, 2007 at 8:58 pm
I’ve ordered. Here is my ongoing blog of my experience. The order is now being shipped and I’ll keep everyone updated.
http://goldeneaglebikeengine.blogspot.com
62. patrick Says:
June 22nd, 2007 at 9:11 pm
Is anyone into building electric bicycles
63. Timcycle Says:
June 22nd, 2007 at 10:48 pm
I heard Schwinn just came out with a new one that goes 60 miles on a 10 pound battery.
64. Windmillcrusader Says:
June 27th, 2007 at 11:54 am
hey, whatever happened to that kid Zach? That guy seemed to be a tinkerbell with bike parts.
i’m more interested in something to fart around on, though the eagle kits seem nice, driving one to work seems like i should get my organ donor card upto date before i did so.
I’ve worked in Trauma Center ICUs before.
65. jjproctor Says:
July 4th, 2007 at 9:19 pm
you all are crazy but i want to make one to *sigh* i bet im crazyer than all you becouse i want to but a rideing lawnmower moter that is 18HP onto a bick and i did and i went full throutule and it was like 2 fast 2 fureuse im in the hospitile right now wighting this now with 5brocken bones ^_^ it was fun thouh im planing to go again when i get out ;)
66. jimbeaux Says:
July 5th, 2007 at 5:05 am
‘STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES’GOMER! THE 6TH BONE BROKEN SHOULDA BEEN YOUR ASS BONE YOU IDIOT. YOU’RE A MENACE TO YOURSELF AND SOCIETY. TURN YOUR MIND AND BODY OVER TO SCIENCE!
67. Windmillcrusader Says:
July 5th, 2007 at 8:21 am
eryc, a bike with an engine on it is called a bike. if you get a small engine one, it shouldn’t matter. it goes bike, not motorbike. if you got peddles and a small mounted engine you’re golden.
one way to find out is to visit the department of motor vehicles in MI to make sure your engine size is under the legal limit. though most would be for sale are legit. otherwise you’d need to get the bike registered, stuff like that.
68. Windmillcrusader Says:
July 5th, 2007 at 8:23 am
JJ, that bick you loaded with an 18hp, did it run on butane or methane? sounds like the second one to me.
69. jjproctor Says:
July 5th, 2007 at 12:58 pm
actually my keyboard is broken so i have to press real hard and well my fingers hurt #_# and it ran on regular gas. it was siting in a dich when i left in the ambulance i dount know if itz still there or not but it was pretty fucked up when i left so i dount know if it runs or not anymore (i hope *i want to ride it again when i get out*)
and for jimbeaux it was fun i could probably ride from frerica to walmart in 5mins it gos at least 60-70 mph ^_^ itz as fun as it get i could probly out race a cop on the dam thing!!! (i know itz stuped BUT it is fun)
70. Derek Says:
July 11th, 2007 at 10:19 am
on zachs model , what is used to increase the speed how do i hook that up to the weedeater engine?
71. Windmillcrusader Says:
July 11th, 2007 at 2:05 pm
THAT GUY ZACH IS NUTS. I don’t think he’s been back on the list since it go reopened. some guy named jimbo had made some degrading comments about him and then zach got mad. then lee stopped the list for a year. since then, zach has not reappeared. i wrote lee and asked him to contact zach.
he’s thinking right out of the box on what he does.
he does not appear to have a throttle, just a kill switch.
72. jack pontiac Says:
July 15th, 2007 at 10:22 am
In Alberta Canada you dont need a drivers license,plates or insurance if: the engine is less than 50cc/3cu.in.,it has no manual clutch,it has no transmission.I was pondering the idea of building something with a friction roller type drive.I would use a friction roller that was cone shaped.1.1/4inches on one end and 2.1/2 inches on the other end.I would tilt the motor so that the bottom of the roller is perpendicular to the tire.It would be like a continuous variable speed transmision.To gear up or down,the motor would be shifted side to side so that the rollers varying diameter would correspond to a change in ratio.The police would never notice this. Also,what about a different rubber composition that would compensate for wet conditions that case roller slippage. I still find it hard to beleive that a carborundum roller will slip if wet?
73. joshua Says:
July 19th, 2007 at 8:25 pm
hi lee i’m only 12 and was wondering if you could email me how to hook a lawn mower engin on to a gear bike with leaving the gears and gear shifter on email me.
74. Lee Says:
July 19th, 2007 at 9:05 pm
Every project is it’s own. To do something like this, you just have to try it! You should get some help from an adult and go to it! Some of the parts are a little expensive and can be a little dangerous, but nothing you can’t get a handle on with someone with some experience.
You might try some of the projects at http://instructables.com/ or other sites like it. The tinkering is the thing. And even if you only have a tiny bit of success, your friends will be pretty impressed and you’ll have fun.
75. jimbeaux Says:
July 20th, 2007 at 5:52 am
Joshua, you might consider installing a smaller engine 1st. like a weedeater,chainsaw,etc. one of these will be easier to work with and will result in a motor powered bike. you have the ’spirit’, stay on it and always remember, SAFETY FIRST.
76. Timcycle Says:
July 20th, 2007 at 8:23 am
Hi Josh!
http://goldeneaglebikeengine.blogspot.com
You can see my setup here. The kit can also be purchased separately if you already have an engine.
77. LawnmowerKing Says:
July 27th, 2007 at 4:07 am
Hey, everybody… I’ve been messing around in the garage again (oh shit) and in the last 7 hrs. have almost completed my latest ride. I took one of those “green Machine” brushcutters apart, built a nice little aluminum intake, put on an old Mikuni carb, dremeled out the exhaust ports a bit, made up some aluminum bracketry for mounting, and am using some old-style sturmey-archer deraillieurs, wondering if there should be four or 8 speeds…All this over the rear wheel of a cheap $89 Magna mountain bike. I used an ancient Schwinn rear rack (I delivered newspapers with it 30 yrs. ago)for the main mount, those engines already have a centrifugal clutch, so no problem there. Put a cable (used a rear BRAKE cable)and shifters together, and reached the stop point for tonight. There was one I built years ago that made an article in THE OREGONIAN newspaper. Damn thing was clocked at 73 mph at Delta Park in Portland. Got a bit shaky, and had some fun. I’ve also motorized a barstool (McCullough B1 chainsaw engine) but VERY unstable. I used skateboard trucks for the steering, big mistake. I have been doing shit like this since I was 8, so if anyone needs some advice on how to build absurd vehicles, feel free to email me at scj918@aol.com -Steve
78. K Says:
July 30th, 2007 at 4:09 pm
I think building on the cheap is cool. At about 14 I was into building motorized bicycles.
The friction drive wheel was made of wood and about 4″ in diameter. It was then covered with bicycle tire tread and driven through a V-belt reduction system. For the most part, this drive wheel worked without slipping even when wet.
I have used 1 and 2.5 horsepower 4 stroke engines, for a 18 mph top speed and a 25 mph top speed with good hill climbing ability on the latter. The 1 horse power engine got about 60 mile to the quart of gasoline.
I made the wooden drive wheels by laminating pine boards with plain white glue, I then mounted this on a 1/2 inch shaft running in cheap turned, not ground ball bearings, worth a out a $1 in todays money. Running the engine allowed me to turn the laminated wooden block round with a screwdriver before mounting the assemble on my bicycle.
There were many changes to get to success.
For what is worth 25 mph is fast for a bicycle without springs.
Good luck to all who build and ride.
79. Roy Carpenter Says:
August 25th, 2007 at 6:20 pm
Howdy all!
I just purchased the Golden Eagle Robin Suburu 35cc kit just over a month ago. Before I go any further, I’ll be honest with you-I weigh in at over 300 lbs. I have ridden my Schwinn Alloy Seven cruiser for over 2 years, and quite a lot before getting the Golden Eagle kit. Here’s the bottom line: The Suburu engine is excellent, I move at 30 mph with the street gear on level ground. The Golden Eagle mounting system is well designed, and made, BUT the drive ring causes spokes to break on the rear wheel. Needless to say, that gets old very quickly!! I’ve had four spokes break within the last 5 weeks, and all four spokes were driven spokes which were attached to the drive ring. After breaking 3 spokes, and 3 trips to the truing stand, I replaced my stock rear wheel with a good triple V rim, with 14 guage wheelsmith stainless steel straight spokes, and also took plastic ties, and laced the “driven” spokes to the 18 “non-driven” spokes so that when torque is applied to the drive ring, 36 spokes “give” instead of 18, still thinking that my weight was the real issue. I broke another spoke today. I have to ask myself this: If it’s my 310 lbs that is causing this, why is it always a “driven” spoke that breaks on the rear wheel? And now that “driven”, and “undriven” spokes have been laced together right where the “driven” spokes attach to the drive ring, then my weight would theoreticly be cut in half, (as far as torque on the “driven” spokes, when throttle is applied are concerned), and it would be the same as a 170 lb rider WITHOUT tie wrapping the spokes together so that all 36 spokes are “driven”. The folks at Golden Eagle wanted to sell me a heavy duty back wheel with 12 guage spokes, (which they said they couldn’t order replacement spokes if a spoke breaks, so I’d have to buy a whole new wheel). They were also very quick to say that my weight was the issue, but said nothing of it when I was talking to them about ordering the kit. (I explaintd my weight to them at that time as well). As long as the drive ring slightly bends the spoke forward at the nipple, and releases the spoke to it’s original position, when you let off the gas, then eventually the spoke will break, regardless of it’s guage. I don’t think it is too much to say that the drive ring should be designed so that it engages all 36 spokes, and should mount much closer to the spoke nipple, and rim, instead of practically mid spoke where the spokes are more vulnerable to being pushed forward, then backward, then forward, then backward, and so on. That’s pretty obvious!
I don’t even know what to do at this point…maybe loose 150 lbs, but I’ll bet ya those spokes will keep breaking anyways. I feel like I wasted $630.oo. Anybody have any suggestions?
80. Timcycle Says:
August 25th, 2007 at 8:20 pm
Hey Roy. I just sent you an email with some questions. I believe the 35cc of power trying to pull 310 pounds plus the weight of the bike, against gravitational forces is almost too much to ask for a spoke. Your idea of a 36 spoke snap on ring is something GEBE could consider.
After you get my email, we’ll post the question/answer/ponderings here.
81. ln217 Says:
August 25th, 2007 at 8:54 pm
Roy,
I also have broken spokes with the same kit and at 185 lbs. My next break I will replace the rim with a 12 guage spoke rim. I found a forum http://www.motoredbikes.com/ and under the rack’em up section they discuss these issues and more. Hope it helps anyone reading.
82. Roy Carpenter Says:
August 25th, 2007 at 9:06 pm
Aha!! I knew I wasn’t the only one having problems….and you only weigh 185? I hate to say this, but I don’t think heavier guage spokes are the solution…they may last a little longer, but they too will break with the “back and fourth” motion of the drive ring. It really don’t look good. :(
83. jimbeaux Says:
August 26th, 2007 at 5:04 am
roy, quit protecting your obesity and get out of denial. you’re trying to make a ‘volkswagen’ do the job of a ‘humvee’. you might want to do more ‘walking’ than ‘riding’ for awhile. i hope you can help yourself get to a more healthful way of life. thare’s a lot to enjoy roy, if we can fit through the doors of life.
84. Timcycle Says:
August 26th, 2007 at 8:16 pm
Hello All. I have the steel spoke rim recommended by Golden Eagle. Nearly 900 miles of all types of road, outracing dogs, rough gravel roads etc… and by God’s Grace, no broken spokes. The steel spokes made the difference. I am approx 170 pounds plus a pack, extra gas canister and water bottle. … Let’s see if we can figure this out. … Roy, I got your email and will now give it a read.
85. K Says:
September 4th, 2007 at 6:05 pm
For Roy,
12 gage spokes will be about 4 times stronger than 18 gage. Make sure they are real tight and they will last. If the spokes are loose failure is a sure thing.
86. Sam Says:
September 23rd, 2007 at 2:35 pm
Um, im kinda new to the whole posting a question thing. Im interested in attaching a weed wacker motor to a bicycle, and wish to know more about it. You all seem to know alot, but im pressed for time. I was hoping you could email me suggested procedures/steps/kits/or information to my email at dojixoj@gm[nospam]ail.com . Thank you for your time (forgive my spelling)
87. K Says:
September 29th, 2007 at 5:13 pm
Sam:
Attach the engine any way you can. My first construction was of wood and electrical conduit.
The engine you plan to use is most likely about .7 hp at 7,000 rpm. If you use a 1″ drum rubbing on the tire you should get a 10-12 lb. push, with top speed of close to 20 mph, if the tires are pumped up and you have a good tail wind, but probably somewhat less. It still beats pedaling. Good luck.
88. Wal the Aussie Says:
October 7th, 2007 at 7:48 pm
Hey everybody,type zbox into google and you will get some real good ideas.
89. leo Says:
October 14th, 2007 at 2:37 am
where do you put the clutch???
90. windmillcrusader Says:
October 15th, 2007 at 2:48 am
Steve, a motorized bars tool? Very kewl.i’m adding you to my palm pilot contact log.
91. jimbeaux Says:
October 15th, 2007 at 5:29 am
hey steve, hook a beer cooler to it and come on over! i’ll get the jukebox cranked.
92. retired tinkerer Says:
October 16th, 2007 at 9:49 am
about a year ago I built my son a motorized bike using a [verticle shaft] 3.5 briggs and stratton lawnmower engine, although the so called experts on these kind of websites say that it can’t be done. He weighs 250 and it pulls him at about 25mph by the car speedometer. If any 0ne is interested I can describe the measurements and parts used. it is really simple and straightforward, and could be done without any welding if needed
93. Lee Says:
October 16th, 2007 at 4:15 pm
There sure are a lot of comments on this post! I’ve closed comments on this post but…
To help the conversation continue smoothly, please post follow-up comments under this new post, Motorized Bicycle - Part 2


With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
bicycle add-on engines ?

Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
This gives a very small engine.

Where would you mount it ?
Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.
Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

Ideas/criticism ?

Thanks,

== Chris Glur.

Earl Bollinger
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
news@absamail.co.za wrote in message
news:7KGdnbc_-IZTasvZnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@is.co.za...
With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
bicycle add-on engines ?

Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
This gives a very small engine.

Where would you mount it ?
Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.
Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

Ideas/criticism ?

Thanks,

== Chris Glur.

Well they have a lot of those for sale on ebay. Unfortunately they require a
good mechanical skill set to install and get working. Plus some of those
kits are plain junk too.
But, over the years since the 60's, these gas powered bicycles are
discouraged a lot by the government now. Most all the states treat any gas
engine powered bicycle as a real motor vehicle now, so you need to title,
register, get insurance and have a driver's license as well to operate them
on a road. You might have better luck with the electric motor and battery
kits they sell though. The governments now tend to encourage those types of
vehicles. Many states let you ride a electirc bicycle or scooter on the low
speed limit roads wihtout having to title, register them or needing a
driver's license even.
Unfortunately some of those kits may still be tricky to install. But the
kits with the motor (motor in the hub) installed in the front wheel would be
the best one of the bunch to setup and use.

But what is best though, is to get a good bicycle and just start riding it a
lot, you'll get stronger over a period of time, and eventually you will not
want to power it with anything except your own legs.

Ron Ruff
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
I'd advise going electric... much simpler, and less air and noise
pollution. Getting a prebuilt scooter is probably the best option.

Q
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
in China. You can buy them in the US from a bunch of sources on the
internet. Here are just a few.

http://thatsdacs.com
http://www.livefastmotors.com
http://kingsmotorbikes.com

I ride one every day and they work great.

Q

news@absamail.co.za wrote:
With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
bicycle add-on engines ?

Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
This gives a very small engine.

Where would you mount it ?
Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.
Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

Ideas/criticism ?

Thanks,

== Chris Glur.


Rich
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
Q wrote:
Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
in China.

http://thatsdacs.com
http://www.livefastmotors.com
http://kingsmotorbikes.com

China has horrible air pollution. And if there are millions of these
2-stokes with minimal exhaust system things around it's no wonder.

Please don't get one of these.

Rich

Werehatrack
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
On Tue, 02 May 2006 01:10:22 -0500, news@absamail.co.za wrote:

With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
bicycle add-on engines ?

Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

No, actually, it's not obvious at all. The prevalent design of
derailleur gearing setup mandates that the cranks must turn when the
system is under power. Any acceptable engine assist system will
include a way to disengage the cranks; this is not presently a feature
of any mainstream (or market-accepted, for that matter) derailleur
gear setup. What's more obvious is that an assist engine should have
a drive system that is as fully disengaged as possible when using
human power, so that the only penalty when pedalling is the extra
weight of the motor and system. I believe this is best accomplished
by the use of a special rear hub equipped with a second freewheeling
sprocket on the left side, permitting the assist engine to drive the
rear wheel independent of and separate from the human-power system.

Other solutions definitely exist; this is just the one that makes the
most sense to me.

The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
This gives a very small engine.

Yes.

Where would you mount it ?

Aft of, and if possible below, the seat.

Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

See above. This would require redesigning too many things, when
reworking just one will do the job as well.

It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.

Centrifugal clutches are cheap and reliable. Gearing the engine down
is probably best done with a jackshaft.

Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

You're adding needless energy loss unless you want the belt to be part
of a variable-ratio drive system. Keep the speed and grade-climbing
parameters within a narrow (but still useful) range, and you don't
need it.

I will note, however, that many belt-drive motorized bicycles were
made prior to World War II, and one common approach was to put the
pulley groove on the side of the rear rim, thereby providing a useful
gearing solution with minimal effort. Unfortunately, this requires a
wider rear stay spacing than is used on normal bicycles; a special
frame would be needed in order to employ it.

I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

You need more than an idea and a drafting tool to execute such a
design successfully.

Ideas/criticism ?

I will simply note that such assist motor systems are already on the
market. If they become too popular and/or too powerful, they will
attract the attention of the regulatory bodies, and we'll probably see
them banned, either temporarily or permanently. This has happened
before; the US state of Florida, for one, banned such assist motors in
the 1960s or '70s. If a bicycle was seen underway via non-rider
power, the rider was subject to being cited for operating an
unlicensed motor vehicle and failure to have the vehicle inspected.
(Later, when insurance was made mandatory for all drivers, failure to
show proof of insurance would have been an additional charge that
could have been levied, but by then the market for assist motors was
completely dead.) It is my understanding that in more recent years,
this ban was relaxed to permit the sale of mopeds, but one should not
underestimate the potential for legislative action to render such
systems useless once again. Here in Texas, the use of pocket bikes
(both gas and battery-powered) by underage riders became enough of a
nuisance that they have slowly been getting banned from on-street use;
in the process, such "alternative transport" devices as the Segway
have been placed in legal limbo since they are usually not excluded
from the bans.

Any effort to promulgate a powered transport device should be
undertaken with due care and attention to keeping the regulatory
bodies from hamstringing the effort before it can get started.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Werehatrack
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
On Tue, 02 May 2006 12:58:48 GMT, Q hugemoth@access4less.net wrote:

Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
in China.

Among a population that has *three* commas in its enumerator. That's
not as commonplace as it sounds. Even "tens of millions" would still
make it a niche presence.

You can buy them in the US from a bunch of sources on the
internet. Here are just a few.

http://thatsdacs.com
http://www.livefastmotors.com
http://kingsmotorbikes.com


I note that all of those are essentially the same motor setup, and
they all require a 36-spoke rear wheel. The rear sprocket is clamped
to the spokes. I didn't see a provision for accurately centering the
sprocket. Additionally, the engine is a 2-stroke unit; the operation
of those is already banned (for *any* device) in certain parts of the
US due to pollution concerns. While the fuel consumption is small,
the probability is high that these would actually produce more grams
per mile of HC, CO and NOx pollution than a late-model compact car.

All in all, I'm not impressed. Quite the reverse. As an engineer I
once knew said, "If these were munitions, I would recommend that they
be supplied to the enemy in the greatest quantity possible." On the
other hand, I think the makers are on the right track; they mostly
need a cleaner-running engine and a better rear hub setup (and better
mounting system) to make this into a potentially acceptable product.
(In other words, chuck it and start over using the same idea with
better execution.)

I'm sure the Chinese will soon be making and supplying something
cleaner and/or less improvised for their domestic market.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Q
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
There are also 4 stroke engine kits made for bicycles by
http://www.bikeengines.com

I built one using their belt system parts and a Honda GX31 4 stroke
engine a few years ago. Worked fine but was lacking in power compared to
the Chinese engines. I still have it hanging in the garage.

Q


Werehatrack wrote:
On Tue, 02 May 2006 12:58:48 GMT, Q hugemoth@access4less.net wrote:

Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
in China.

Among a population that has *three* commas in its enumerator. That's
not as commonplace as it sounds. Even "tens of millions" would still
make it a niche presence.

You can buy them in the US from a bunch of sources on the
internet. Here are just a few.

http://thatsdacs.com
http://www.livefastmotors.com
http://kingsmotorbikes.com


I note that all of those are essentially the same motor setup, and
they all require a 36-spoke rear wheel. The rear sprocket is clamped
to the spokes. I didn't see a provision for accurately centering the
sprocket. Additionally, the engine is a 2-stroke unit; the operation
of those is already banned (for *any* device) in certain parts of the
US due to pollution concerns. While the fuel consumption is small,
the probability is high that these would actually produce more grams
per mile of HC, CO and NOx pollution than a late-model compact car.

All in all, I'm not impressed. Quite the reverse. As an engineer I
once knew said, "If these were munitions, I would recommend that they
be supplied to the enemy in the greatest quantity possible." On the
other hand, I think the makers are on the right track; they mostly
need a cleaner-running engine and a better rear hub setup (and better
mounting system) to make this into a potentially acceptable product.
(In other words, chuck it and start over using the same idea with
better execution.)

I'm sure the Chinese will soon be making and supplying something
cleaner and/or less improvised for their domestic market.

Chalo
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
Earl Bollinger wrote:

But, over the years since the 60's, these gas powered bicycles are
discouraged a lot by the government now. Most all the states treat any gas
engine powered bicycle as a real motor vehicle now, so you need to title,
register, get insurance and have a driver's license as well to operate them
on a road.

Many if not most gas-powered bicycles qualify as mopeds. In most
states, these have to be licensed (one time only), but do not require
insurance or a motorcycle endorsement to operate.

You might have better luck with the electric motor and battery
kits they sell though. The governments now tend to encourage those types of
vehicles. Many states let you ride a electirc bicycle or scooter on the low
speed limit roads wihtout having to title, register them or needing a
driver's license even.

Most states have settled on the Federal Government's arbitrary limit of
750W (1.0 HP) output and 20mph maximum assisted speed for an electric
bike to be legally classified the same as an ordinary bicycle.

Unfortunately some of those kits may still be tricky to install. But the
kits with the motor (motor in the hub) installed in the front wheel would be
the best one of the bunch to setup and use.

Front hub motors are the easiest kind of kit to set up, but the best
ones to use are those which drive through the bike's gearing. Examples
of those include the Cyclone kit (for single chainring derailleur
bikes) and Stokemonkey (for Xtracycle-equipped bikes). There are also
turn-key electric bikes like the Merida Powercycle and Giant LaFree
Lite that come with powered cranks rather than powered wheels.

http://www.cyclone-tw.com/
http://cleverchimp.com/

Chalo Colina

Sponsored Links

Doug Goncz
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
I agree with Ed's comment about self-power. Once I got to _enjoy_
climbing Upton Hill nearby, I found that one climb of the hill would
"power me through" an easy 25 mile ride. That is, the hill workout
reduced my intolerance to physical work; it increased my upper limit.

I motivated myself to climb the Hill by doing it at dawn, the prize
being the tremendous view of my area and the dawn colors.

I didn't so any body-building, I just got used to the feeling my legs.
No sweat, just feeling the burn. Really made a difference. At one point
I was limited to one mile rides. Now we do 25 almost every Saturday.
Jeff goes on to do another 20 or 40. Shees.

Doug

Doug Goncz
Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?
Werehatrack wrote:
You're adding needless energy loss unless you want the belt to be part
of a variable-ratio drive system. Keep the speed and grade-climbing
parameters within a narrow (but still useful) range, and you don't
need it.

I will note, however, that many belt-drive motorized bicycles were
made prior to World War II, and one common approach was to put the
pulley groove on the side of the rear rim, thereby providing a useful
gearing solution with minimal effort. Unfortunately, this requires a
wider rear stay spacing than is used on normal bicycles; a special
frame would be needed in order to employ it.

I have built a front wheel with a 26 1-3/8 tire on it and an inner
conentric rim off to one side having 24 inch nominal size. It is
centered quite well. This won't work with an MTB-sixed 26 inch rim, at
least not the farily deep-section steel rim on my old MTB. A less deep
aluminum MTB rim might work this way, providing a path for add-ons, at
the cost of relacing the wheel with the old spokes, a labor expense. I
still have this wheel and would like donate it to an experimenter here
in rbm or rbt.

Doug Goncz
Replikon Research
Falls Church, VA 22044-0394

Is it possible please to install a 49 cc engine on a bicycle,many thanks.
pumpuiman
2007-02-07 13:26:14
I remember this kid who lived in my neighborhood doing exactly that when I was about 10 years old.

I thought it was the coolest thing I'd ever seen.

The engine was from a Honda QA 50 minibike
Crossy
2007-02-07 13:27:06
Why would you want to do that with so many cheap and SAFE small bikes around?

Of course it's possible, this is Thailand (Asia actually).

The result would probably be illegal, certainly lethal (think bicycle brakes) and liable to get you locked up

If you're so desperate for a bicycle with an engine, find an old (or even a new) Solex.
luckyluke
2007-02-07 13:38:21
QUOTE(Crossy @ 2007-02-07 13:27:06)
Why would you want to do that with so many cheap and SAFE small bikes around?

Of course it's possible, this is Thailand (Asia actually).

The result would probably be illegal, certainly lethal (think bicycle brakes) and liable to get you locked up

If you're so desperate for a bicycle with an engine, find an old (or even a new) Solex.


Thanks,i am looking for a Solex(see my topic of today 2:52:35),can you please tell me the name of a safe small bike(i only find 100 cc but not less than that)
elkangorito
2007-02-07 13:42:38
I actually did this when I was a kid.

I used a Norman Nippy engine (friction wheel drive) in the front carrier of my old 28 inch 'Speedwell' push bike. Ran the exhaust down alongside one of the front forks, made the clutch lever latchable, converted a Sturmy Archer thumb gear change to use as the throttle, put a cardboard box over the engine...could do about 40 to 50 miles per hour but was a bit dangerous at that speed. Bloody great fun though.
ashacat
2007-02-07 13:44:24
QUOTE
I used a Norman Nippy engine (friction wheel drive) in the front carrier of my old 28 inch 'Speedwell' push bike. Ran the exhaust down alongside one of the front forks, made the clutch lever latchable, converted a Sturmy Archer thumb gear change to use as the throttle, put a cardboard box over the engine...could do about 40 to 50 miles per hour but was a bit dangerous at that speed. Bloody great fun though.


Did you used to watch "McGuiver" perchance?...
Crossy
2007-02-07 13:47:41
100cc is a small bike in my dictionary

Some interesting stuff here http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pattle/nacc/arc0393.htm on the Bugatti cyclemotor which may give you some ideas although the Bugatti was only 10.6cc and replaced the pedals so removing the backup power source.

You may have some success if you use a weed trimmer motor (30cc ish) likely to be safer (less power) and easier to mount.

There will still be issues of registration and insurance though, as a foreigner you're not going to get away with it like a Thai would.

I spotted your other thread, there have been Solex and small engined bikes for sale in the past so you never know your luck
elkangorito
2007-02-07 13:47:45
QUOTE(ashacat @ 2007-02-07 13:44:24)
QUOTE
I used a Norman Nippy engine (friction wheel drive) in the front carrier of my old 28 inch 'Speedwell' push bike. Ran the exhaust down alongside one of the front forks, made the clutch lever latchable, converted a Sturmy Archer thumb gear change to use as the throttle, put a cardboard box over the engine...could do about 40 to 50 miles per hour but was a bit dangerous at that speed. Bloody great fun though.


Did you used to watch "McGuiver" perchance?...



This was long before the days of McGuiver.
Jamnjam
2007-02-07 16:20:45
QUOTE(luckyluke @ 2007-02-07 13:19:53)
Is it possible please to install a 49 cc engine on a bicycle,many thanks.


Hi,

I've been motoring around Thailand (Nakhonsitammarat) for two years now on my motorised bicycle. I've got a couple and I've driven up to the far corner of Yunnan with my wife using them as transport. Easy to cross borders with, no registration issues, easy to load onto buses and possible to load onto planes.

I had never thought of a motorised bicycle as a good idea due to the fact most motorised bicycles were driven by a friction roller onto the back wheel. Others were home made based on a chain drive.

It wasn't until I came across a small company who had invented a belt driven wheel using a spoke, clip-on drive ring. Loved the idea straight away so I ordered a couple of these rings, gears and belts over the internet. I bought a standard honda 31cc 4 stroke from a local Thai store and had the local motor bike mechanic help me put it together.

Check out their site at www.goldeneagle.com. Today the company is using a heavier duty belt so you could probably get away with mounting a 50 cc engine if you really don't want to pedal up hills much.

Both my bikes can move along at 50 km/h in most flat conditions. That's enough speed for a bicycle. Brakes are no problem on a good mountain bike which is designed for stopping riders speeding downhill.

Still if your interested, the whole thing is only a fraction cheaper than getting a small 100cc motorcycle.

You definitely do stand out riding a motorised bicycle in Thailand. I've had a pickup truck full of cops all cheering me along and driving side-by-side with me. No matter where I go I'm drawing far more attention on the bike than any other form of transportation and all of it has been very friendly.

With hills you have to put in too. It's probably the only chance most of us will ever know what it would be like to be like Lance Armstrong powering up a mountain.

Anyway, overall it's a lot of fun, simple and reliable. Especially good if you want to travel throughout Asia with little to know problems unlike with registered vehicles.

Goodluck.
Crossy
2007-02-07 17:47:42
I couldn't get the Golden eagle link to work, but Mr Google was my friend :-

http://www.bikeengines.com/robin25info.htm

Looks like fun, but not cheap by the time you've imported the beast

Wonder if they have a Thai distributor.

Kit without engine only weighs 6.5lbs http://www.bikeengines.com/mountonly.htm more shipable

Those engines look exactly like the ones on weed trimmers, got to be readily available here
mr_hippo
2007-02-07 19:31:46
Cyclomotors were popular in the UK upto the 60's I believe that Hero Honda (India) still make a 24cc model - I have seen one in Bangkok about 2 years ago.
Check out http://cgi.ebay.com/80cc-Motor-bicycle-Mot...tem110089154068 for a fairly cheap conversion kit
billd766
2007-02-07 22:11:28
Waaay back in 1959 in the UK I had a bicycle with an engine but I have no idea what make it was.
What I do remember is that the insurance cost me 12/6d or about 45 baht a YEAR. ###### thing kept breaking down and in the end I threw it away.
toptuan
2007-02-07 22:50:51
Up in my neck of the woods, they're selling bicycles with ELECTRIC motors. Pretty cheap and legal, and definitely easy on the petrol budget!
mr_hippo
2007-02-08 15:36:52
Do you think that there is a market for motorised bicycles in South East Asia? I am thinking of 49 cc gas engines, top speed of around 50kph and fuel consumption of about 150mpg. Retail price range - 12-15K Baht.
tytus
2007-02-09 13:42:21
Eletric Bicycle On Sale here:

http://www.motor-extremesport.com/ecobrand.asp